Our guide offered us the option to chose the long hike or a relaxing day. Simon opted to relax! However mass confusion reigned over our destination!
Entering caño cristales park, we turned right following the last section of the piano trail to the river’s greener macarenia clavigera section.
We walked along a dusty farm track back to yesterday’s lunch destination. Needing the loo I found our guide and Simon sampling a local fermented honey drink, much like mead! Stashing our lunch in their freezer we headed across bucolic fields towards the forest. We could have been in Rotherwick if it wasn’t for the wrong sort of cows! Entering the Forest we shortly joined the river again. Another double take this time transporting me back in time to Devon and Double waters! There was even an idyllic swimming hole; our relaxing private destination.
It was wonderful swimming in the cool clear waters, climbing or jumping from rocks, attempting underwater photography and observing the greenish brown version up close. Eventually pudding fingers or rather “raisin fingers” in Spanish meant our time was up. So refreshing on yet another baking hot humid day.
Returning a few minutes later Simon realised he’d lost his watch. I retraced our steps; no watch! Ooops in bag after all!
Sharing our vegetarian lunch back at the farm we discussed coca. In recognition of the region’s unique fragile ecology the park was formed from rewilding of the land surrounding river; the recent agreement with the rebels allowing the return of tourism. Those subsistence farmers residing within the preservation area were encouraged to exchange coca farming for supporting tourists. So at this farm in the high season they run a low budget bar and hostel supporting tourism resorting to traditional cattle farming in the low season. Win win for everyone!
Waiting for our canoe back to the lodge we witnessed magic or madness! A car backing on to ferry, last seen transporting cattle, to cross the river. Yesterday we saw a motorcycle mount a double canoe balancing on wooden central planks. Normal apparently if your journey is along those un-paved roads.
Back at the lodge our guide reminded us we had another cultural mystery involving chocolate! With time for a shower and a chat to our eldest, I finally saw monkeys! I’d been hearing and noticing evidence but never spotting them. I finally realised why; I needed my contact lenses!
Our chocolate experience turned out to be a stroll along the river to the neighbour’s cacoa farm. She manages an organic Cacoa orchard.
She showed us the trees, flowers, and fruits. We tasted the flesh containing a bean from an expensive and a normal pod; one more scented than the other. Next she scoops out the beans and leaves them to ferment for a few days; the white flesh turns pink. Dry roasting over an open fire to makes it easier to remove the now brown bean's outer coating. Together we shelled the pre-fired beans, into a metal hand grinder producing cacoa butter.
I’m still unsure if they were having us on, however we were encouraged to spread the cacoa butter on our faces to combat the sun’s effects.
Tour over we headed back to the bar for a farewell drink and let the magic work. Not lasting the full half hour we headed back to wash our faces. Surprisingly soft!
Sadly many of her pods are infected with a burrowing insect, causing them to rot. I hope she gets a fair trade for her dried beans, although I expect she earns more from tourism !
At dinner we heard our last cultural experience would be a canoe trip to watch the sunrise. Realising we needed to rendezvous at 5:15am we headed for bed.
Journey to Caño Cristales park entrance
(Non-military patrol in the park)
Walk to our last sighting of Caño Cristalitos famous Macarenia clavigera, the green version
( route; signpost; dear track; across farm fields; caño cristales river; Macarenia clavigera green version; Macarenia clavigera brown version; heron that doesn't eat fish)
Private swimming pool.
(swimming; climbing;jumping)
(Fish; Brown Macarenia clavigera; Green Macarenia clavigera)
Farm diversification
(Farm and bar; Hostel)
River ferry crossing transporter
(Car; Motorcycle)
Finally monkey sighting!
(Squirrel monkey; Bathroom companion )
Cultural attraction: Cacoa farm
( Cacoa flower; Cacoa pod; Ripe Cacao pod; Diseased cacoa pod; Inside Cacoa pod (raw); Dried roasted cacoa pod; milling cacoa butter; Cacoa farm & face cream!)
We stayed at La Manigua Lodge in La Macarena national park.
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